The Osceolas
Where: Osceola (4340') & Osceola East Peak (4156'), NH
When: 19 July, 2022
With: Solo
With HCAM coverage of school events done for the summer, and summer band finished as well, my schedule had opened up and I decided to knock some more 4000 footers off my NH48 list. I topped off my car's gas tank, loaded up a day pack (with water mostly), and put my hiking boots into the car, ready to go the next day. I decided to try for the Osceolas, two peaks with a trailhead near Waterville Valley, a shorter drive than other destinations in the Whites.
I was awake at 5, and did a quick check of the Higher Summits weather forecast from the Mt. Washington Observatory. It said there'd be rain moving out in the morning, and possible storms in the afternoon, but clear skies during the day. I had a quick breakfast, took care of Wilma, and was on the road around 5:45. A couple of hours later, after an uneventful drive north, I was bumping along on Tripoli road. There were a couple of cars in the trailhead parking lot when I arrived around 8:15, one with two guys putting their gear together. We commented on a dark cloud looming in the distance, but decided we'd be okay.
When I returned from the bathroom, they were gone, but another car had pulled in with two more guys who were now packing up. I noted the signs saying a parking fee was required, and affixed my annual parking pass sticker to my car window before I headed for the trail. I snapped a photo of the trailhead sign (for the time stamp), then was on my way.
The trail started off easy (as most trails do), then began a moderate climb. It was a rocky trail, with the path filled from side to side with basketball-size chunks of mostly granite. There'd been rainstorms overnight, and I was concerned the rocks would be slippery so I proceeded somewhat cautiously, but I never had any problems.
The trail never seemed especially tough, at least for me. On these peak-bagging hikes, I usually encounter some section of the trail that's just really difficult. I stop to rest, gasping for breath, and look up the trail thinking, "When will this end?" That didn't happen today. Maybe the trail was easier, or maybe I'm in better shape, but I found I had no trouble just taking one step after another and making good time. I kept expecting the guys behind me to catch up, and at one point I thought I heard them in the woods below me, but they never appeared.
I did encounter a young man coming down from the top, who said it was windy and there were no views. Down where I was, I was pleased to see sunlight streaming through the trees from time time. For the most part however, the day remained cloudy and comfortably cool. Back home, the forecast was for a hot day, so I'd been concerned about that, but it wasn't an issue.
The trail made a number of switchbacks, then began climbing a bit more seriously. It also changed from a boulder field to large, sloping slabs of rock. They were wet, and I was walking along their base at first, but I found I had good grip, and I moved further up the rock faces. I kept thinking I was nearing the summit, but finally I got a view of the top and knew I still had a ways to go.
Eventually the trail leveled off a bit, slabbing around the side of the summit. At one point, high up, it crossed a running stream with a healthy flow. Unusual to see at such an elevation. It continued around the slope, then came to a straight section filled with mist from the low clouds. Shortly afterward, I arrived at a small opening in the trees and found the two guys who'd left before me. They were seated around the remains of supports for a fire tower, eating some food. I figured it was the summit of Osceola, but one of the guys said he hadn't been able to find a summit marker. He pointed further along the trail and said there was another area there. According to the AMC White Mountain Guide and on-line maps though, this spot is likely the true summit of Osceola.
We chatted a bit, mostly about which way the trail went, before I headed to the other area. There was another set of fire tower supports (newer than the ones at the other area), and an open cliff edge that would normally look over a spectacular view. Today, it was just a wall of white mist. But it did seem to be the summit. I looked all around for a marker, checking the obvious spots without success, then found it at one end of the cliff edge. I started to go back to tell the guys, but one was already coming up. I showed him the marker, then began hiking down the trail toward East Peak.
The trail dropped sharply at first before easing off a bit, then dropping again. It followed a ridge line, and there was a spot along the way where I was able to walk out and finally see a view (the clouds had moved out). It then began a steep drop through a rocky section, and I wondered if I'd come to The Chimney. I'd heard and read about it for some time, with references to bypasses, and bypasses of bypasses to get around it.
Finally, I came to the actual Chimney, and there was no doubt. The path literally dropped off the edge of a small cliff. The trail split at the top, with the first trail markings I'd seen all day. I took my neighbor's advice to "go left", and found myself picking my way down the near-vertical rock face. My poles were useless...handholds were required. Fortunately it was a relatively short descent and I was soon at the bottom. Looking back up at the other route (the left one, from the bottom), the Chimney name was appropriate.
I was now in the col between the two peaks, and the trail began to climb on its way up East Peak. Once again, it began easy, then got tough. And once again I thought I was nearing the top a couple of times, but was mistaken. One foot after another was the order of the day once more, though I did take a break at a spectacular view of the Pemigewasset Wilderness and the Kancamagus Highway. That turned out to be the best view of the hike so far.
A final steep climb ended at a section of smooth, easy trail, and then a large cairn marking the East Peak summit. I'd made it! I took a series of photos, drank a toast to the summit, and finally drank some water. I'd been hiking for nearly two and a half hours, climbed two 4000+ foot peaks, and hadn't had any water to drink! In my defense, I hadn't been thirsty. In fact, I only drank now because I thought I should (and to reduce some of my pack weight). I struggled a bit with the hydration bladder (new on this hike, and it had a lock I didn't notice at first), had a good drink, then began my return journey.
Shortly after leaving the summit, I met the two guys I'd seen on Osceola's summit. They told me that the clouds had cleared on Osceola right after I'd left! A few steps further along, I met the other two guys who'd left the parking area after me. We chatted a bit about NH peak-bagging, and they said they were going to try to get to Osceola's West Peak. There's no trail to it, so it would be an adventure. Apparently it has a spot with a fantastic view.
I was back at the base of The Chimney pretty quickly, and followed the advice to go left again, climbing straight up the rock face. My poles hung from my wrists as I used my hands to grab the rocks and haul myself up. It wasn't bad at all. When I got to the top, I met a young woman just arriving at the spot. I recommended the left route down to her before resuming my return to Osceola's summit.
I made one detour along the way to follow a path heading toward a possible view, but it didn't lead to much. Back on the main trail, I was fooled (again) by potential summit approaches before getting a view of the actual summit, still looking formidable in the distance. Eventually however I made my way over a few more rocky climbs and stepped back out on to Osceola's summit.
As I'd been told, the clouds had cleared and the views were spectacular. I spent a fair amount of time there, taking photos, drinking another summit toast, and exploring side trails. As I suspected, several led to camp sites. Most were quite small (one hammock or tent), but one was sizeable. A clearing with a rock base and the remains of a campfire.
When I'd had my fill of exploration, I began the descent back to my car. I tried to move along quickly, though I was aware that I was now in the Rubber Legs portion of the hike. I made a point of using my poles to keep myself steady & upright. With all of the rocks, it was tough going and I had a few slips, but I never fell down. I began to encounter other folks walking up. Several groups of two, a family of four, a man & son with two dogs, and a number of single hikers. Total for all was 17-18 folks.
Typical for these hikes, things began to get tedious as I neared the end. I was ready for the hike to be done. Unfortunately, I hadn't paid a lot of attention at the beginning of the hike, and the trail didn't look familiar so I had no idea how close I might be. But then the trail crossed a stream, and on the other side was a flat gravel path that ended at the parking lot. It was just a bit after 1PM. I quickly de-geared myself and turned the car toward home. 2.5 hours later, I pulled into the driveway.
Numbers:
- 4:45 trail time (maybe 4:15-4:30 walking), 8.4 miles
- Start: 8:19AM
- Osceola: 9:54AM (3.2 miles, 1:35)
- East Peak: 10:37AM (4.2 miles, 2:18)
- Osceola (return): 11:25AM (5.2 miles, 3:06)
- End: 1:04PM (8.4 miles, 4:45)
- Elevation gain: 2950 ft. total (Osceola - 2050 ft., East Peak - 350 ft., Osceola return - 550 ft.)
- Driving time: 2.5 hours each way
- NH48 4K peaks #27 & 28
- 1985 - *Bondcliff, *Bond, *South Twin, *Garfield, *Lafayette, *Lincoln, *Liberty, *Flume
- 1991 - Bondcliff, Bond, *West Bond, *Zealand
- 1999 - Bondcliff, Bond, South Twin, *Galehead
- 2000 - Bondcliff, Bond
- 2003 - *Whiteface, *Passaconaway
- 2019 - North Hancock, *South Hancock
- 2019 - North Kinsman, *South Kinsman
- 2022 - *Osceola, *East Osceola
