Mt. Jefferson
Where: Mt. Jefferson (5712')
When: 9/24/2024
With: Solo
The weather and my schedule lined up, so I headed to New Hampshire for the second Tuesday in a row. My destination this time was Mt. Jefferson, the next 4000 footer north of Mt. Washington in the Presidential Range. I'd thought I might get it last year when I climbed Mt. Monroe, but I also climbed Mt. Washington on that trip and had nothing left in the tank for Jefferson. It's a unique 4000 footer. The most popular route, the Caps Ridge trail, begins high on the mountain and it's just a 2767' climb to the 5712' summit. It's also only 2.5 miles from the trail head to the top, but it's a tough 2.5 miles.
I pulled into the lot off the unpaved Jefferson Notch Road after a three hour drive, joining two other vehicles already in the lot. A man got out of the pickup truck next to me and began packing up as well. Though the temperature was barely 50 degrees, I stowed my North Face sweater in my pack and wore just a wicking base layer. I figured I'd warm up soon enough. Just a bit before 8:30, I started up the trail.
It began with a short, relatively flat, damp area (with boardwalks), but very quickly began climbing aggressively. Not surprising, given how high on the mountain the trail started. It climbed steadily though a pretty mix of forest that soon began to transition to higher altitude vegetation. A large rock outcropping at a turn provided a spectacular view of the surrounding area. With the leaves beginning to change color and wisps of clouds swirling around the slopes, it was a gorgeous sight. The rock outcropping itself was rather cool too, with potholes formed by glacial melt water.
Immediately afterward, the trail went into a pretty stand of stunted trees, then emerged into the open. No more tree cover for the rest of the hike to the top. A short time later The Link trail came in from the left. The Link continues around the northern slope of the Presidential range, all the way to the Appalachia parking area. It also intersects with another trail coming down from Jefferson's summit, allowing for a loop hike.
Shortly after that trail junction, a short side trail led to another open view. I went out and, hearing voices, looked up to see the first Cap and a group of five hikers making their way up its rocky mass. There are three Caps, large outcroppings of rock rising from the ridge. I've looked for the origin of the name, but just found "named for their unique shape." Did they look like hats to someone? In any case, the one I could see looked intimidating from that distance.
I arrived at the base of the Cap a few minutes later, and it was worse up close. The trail suddenly turned vertical, climbing up large rocks and rock slabs. The hike had turned into a rock climb. The climbing wasn't really all that tough, but a lot of care was needed with foot placements and hand holds. My pace was governed by caution more than by exertion. I quickly decided my hiking poles were useless, and I stowed them in my pack (though I had to move them a few times because they kept hitting the back of my head when I looked up). It was sometimes difficult to discern the route of the path, as folks had taken a variety of ways up & around the rocks. Fortunately, there were cairns that kept getting me back on track.
I made it past the first Cap and looked up to see the next one. It was rinse & repeat until I made it past the third Cap and onto the upper part of the mountain. The slope of the trail eased off a bit, but I was now in an Alpine zone above treeline, and the trail surface was mostly just broken rock. Tough hiking, and again, sometimes tough to follow the trail. But there were always cairns - some big, some small - and the views made it worth the effort. Soaring mountains, deep ravines, and clouds swirling up and down both.
I caught up with the group of five hikers at the next trail junction (The Cornice trail) as they stopped to add layers (it was quite windy and pretty cool). After chatting a bit, I took the opportunity to go on ahead on my own. From this point on it was just a matter of picking my way up the trail, looking for cairns or signs of foot traffic on the rocks for guidance, while also trying to keep my hat from blowing off my head!
There were several false summits, high ridges of rock I'd approach and then see another rise just beyond. Finally I arrived at the base of one rise that seemed to be The One. There was a col just ahead with a couple of trail junction signs, and beyond that, another rise that seemed to be a similar height. I looked at one, then the other, and finally pulled out my phone to check my trail app. It indicated the rise I was next to was indeed the true summit. Looking up, I spotted a couple of cairns I hadn't noticed before, marking the route to the top.
I moved into the shelter of a rock and pulled my North Face jacket from my pack because I was starting to feel chilled. I'd brought a wind/weather meter, so I could have checked the weather, but I forgot about it until I was unpacking back at home. The Mt. Washington Observatory reported temperatures in the high 30s and a wind of 14 mph for that time. That works out to a wind chill at or below freezing. Brrr!
Properly layered up, I headed up and was at the summit just moments later. It had been two hours since I started. A metal pin in a rock marked the top, with a small cairn nearby. The wind was howling, so I didn't stay too long, but I got my photos and did indeed spend a few moments taking it all in before heading back down.
The group of five was just arriving at the base of the summit pile as I came down. "Was it worth it?" one of them asked. I shrugged, "Is it ever worth it?" Then I smiled and admitted that yes, it was worth it. I mentioned that it was my 40th of the NH 48 4000 footers, and one of the group pointed to another and said this would be her 48th! She was just steps away from completing her quest. "How cool!" I exclaimed, and I congratulated her on the achievement.
She asked if I was returning on the same path and I said I was. I vaguely recalled the possibility of a loop hike from Jefferson, but there were unfavorable reviews of the route and I had planned on a straightforward up & back. I looked into the loop later (Castle Trail to The Link) and it would have added 1.6 miles to my hike, plus the reviews of the trails involved (particularly The Link) were indeed not positive. Besides, I'd just done a big loop hike last week. Still, in hindsight, perhaps I should have figured out the route and gone. I had nothing better to do that day, and who knows if I'll ever come back?
The return journey through the upper slopes went smoothly. I stopped from time to time to admire the views, and tried but failed to get a photo of the summit of Mt. Washington (the clouds insisted on keep it concealed). I spotted the Lakes of the Clouds hut and all of the surrounding peaks however, and often heard the Cog Railway blowing its whistle. I made one wrong turn that had me following The Cornice trail, but I quickly realized my mistake, retraced my steps, and got back on the Caps Ridge trail.
Throughout my descent I met more hikers, all on their way up. First was the man who'd been packing up in the parking lot when I was leaving. He also mentioned unfavorable impressions of the loop hike from Jefferson. Then there was a young guy hiking solo, a pair of women, a father & son, and a man/woman couple (she seemed less than thrilled with the hike). Counting the group of five and myself, that's 14 hikers on a Tuesday morning. All but one said this was their first time on the Caps Ridge trail.
Eventually I arrived at the Caps, which were somewhat easier to navigate on the descent, but not much. Going down one, I stepped on a root, expecting a solid rock footing. The root bent down and I took a hard tumble, landing on my shoulder. I got up, relieved to not be seriously hurt, and dialed up my caution a bit. For the rest of the trip through the Caps I'd often slide down a rock on my butt versus trying to step down.
Finally past the Caps, I visited the view point where I'd first seen them and rested a bit. My North Face sweater went back into the pack and I brought out my poles again. After a drink of water and a few more photos I was on my way. Back in the trees and off the Caps, the walking was easier and faster. I stopped a few times to take photos, but mostly I just moved downhill. After passing the junction with The Link trail, the "Are we there yet?" voice began in my head, and the last bit of the trail seemed longer than I would have liked (as usual). By the way, The Link didn't look to be heavily traveled. Perhaps I'm not the only one who skips the loop.
At last a sign appeared, announcing I was entering a Forest Protection Area and was a quarter mile from the end. Boardwalks began to appear, marking the damp section at the beginning of the trail. And suddenly, I was back in the parking lot, just about four hours after I'd started. Three hours later, I was home.
Note: My average speed was 1.46 mph (5.1 miles/3.5 hours moving time), not the rounded-down 1 mph shown above.
