Webster, Jackson, Pierce
Where: Mt. Webster (3910'), Mt. Jackson (4052'), Mt. Pierce (4312')
When: 10/6/2022
With: Solo
Some time ago I put together a list of NH hikes that would summit multiple 4000 foot peaks on one trip, four hikes for nine 4K summits. This was the final hike in that series. There may be other multi-peak hikes to come (Moriah-Carters-Wildcats?), but the next round will likely be single peaks.
This was a hike of opportunity. I'd been scheduled to run camera for a soccer game Thursday afternoon, but on Wednesday afternoon I got word that someone else had taken the gig. With a forecast of great weather and my schedule opened up, I put my pack together, gassed up the car, and was ready to go. After a crappy night of sleep (the usual pre-hike jitters), I rolled out of bed at 5:00 and was on the road by 5:15.
I arrived at Crawford Station just about 8:00, pulling into a spot by the bridge at the end of the Saco Lake Trail. After putting on my boots and pack, I made my way to the trailhead for the Webster-Jackson Trail, a few steps south on Route 302. One hiker went up the trail ahead of me, and a group of three were already taking a break a short distance up the trail to shed layers. Another solo hiker passed me a little later, but that was pretty much it for other folks. Given the conditions (warm temps, peak foliage) I'd expected to see many others. The lack of company was fine by me though.
The trail started climbing immediately from the trailhead and really never let up. I took a short break at Bugle Cliff to check out the view, but otherwise just kept moving upwards. Though several other hikers were wearing just shorts and t-shirts, I was comfortable in long pants and a fleece sweater in the cool morning temps. Eventually I came to the split of the Webster-Jackson Trail, where one branch led to Webster and the other to Jackson. Roughly the same distance to each. Webster isn't a 4K peak, so it was slightly tempting to just head to Jackson, but it'd be a shame to be so close and not climb it.
The Webster branch immediately descended steeply to Silver Cascade Brook, crossing it at the base of its beautiful namesake waterfall. I paused to admire the scene before climbing out of the gully on the other side and continuing toward Webster. The trail ascended steadily through a pretty forest, with the first shafts of the morning sun making their way down through the trees. I kept reminding myself that this would be the bulk of the climbing, and that the hiking would be easier once I got up on the ridge.
I arrived at the junction with the Webster Cliff Trail about an hour and a half after the start of my hike. A few minutes earlier I'd met another hiker, on his way down. He said there was one other hiker at the Webster summit, but no views. From the junction it was a quick & easy 0.1 miles to the summit, and I found the guy had been wrong about the views. A short side trail brought me out to an open rocky spot with magnificent vistas in all directions. A woman with a barking dog was on an adjacent ledge, but they soon departed, leaving the entire area to me. I spent some time enjoying the solitude and view before heading back to the trail and on to the next summit.
I was now on the Appalachian Trail, which would take me over the two 4000 foot peaks that were my primary objective. I'd followed the video blog of an AT thru-hiker earlier this summer, and it was fun thinking he (and other thru-hikers) had travelled the same path just a short time ago. It was more damp than I expected for a ridge trail. Boardwalks were scattered all along the path, keeping hikers out of the wet sections.
From time to time the trail would drop, then climb again on rough scrambles before returning to ridge walking. Several times I figured I was near the summit of Jackson, until I realized I hadn't seen the Jackson branch of the Webster-Jackson Trail yet. Finally the trail began to climb in ernest, ending with a final rocky ascent that brought me to an open ledge and the Jackson branch junction.
After taking it all in, I started toward the final summit of the day, Mt. Pierce. I'd checked it out from Jackson, and it appeared to be a long rolling ridge versus the steep cone of Jackson. Perhaps not a tough climb, I hoped. The trail dropped precipitously off Jackson at first before becoming another moderate path through the woods. Again, more boardwalks. A short distance from the base of Jackson the trail emerged into a open marshy area, with the trail crossing on a raised walkway. I paused at the far end to get a picture of Jackson rising above the trees in the distance.
Beyond the marsh, the trail reentered the woods, returning to the mix of hiking I'd encountered between Webster and Jackson. Moderate ascents, short drops, rough climbs, etc. At one point I found myself in a beautiful mossy-floored woods, with sunlight streaming through the trees. So pretty that I stopped to take several pictures.
The next waypoint on my walk was the AMC's Mizpah Spring Hut. While checking out Pierce from Jackson, I'd noted the hut nestled in the slope on Pierce's side. I arrived there about 45 minutes after leaving Jackson, just after passing the junction with the Mizpah Cutoff trail. Another hiker I'd been playing tag with since Jackson had passed me at the junction, never to be seen again.
It was a bit startling to emerge from the forest to see a huge, modern building in the clearing. Signs on the doors and voices inside indicated it was still open for business, but I didn't go in. The adjacent Nauman tentsite had what I presumed to be a caretaker site - a blue tarp strung up in the trees, lots of gear. I looked around the area outside the hut, noting the lack of a view, then returned to my hike.
From the hut, the trail immediately began a steep, rocky climb up the side of Mt. Pierce. There was even a ladder on one section, though it was in poor shape, with several steps missing and others rotted. A short distance beyond, a thick plank intended to cross an opening in the path was now hanging off to the side. I heard voices above me, then a hiker came down the trail. He watched as I negotiated the gap, and said he'd just been warned about the ladder.
Above that point, it was a return to a mix of moderate climbing and steep scrambles. A hiker with a large external frame backpack passed me coming down the trail. By his grizzled looks I wondered if he might be a southbound AT thru-hiker. I stopped at a spot with a view and finally removed my fleece top. The day had warmed into the mid-70s and, while I hadn't been uncomfortable, doffing the layer did make the going easier. A bit further along I approached what I was certain was the summit, until I emerged at the open spot and spotted the true summit rising in the distance. Oh well.
Some time later, an Alpine Zone boundary sign along the trail signaled I truly was approaching the final summit of the day. Sure enough, the trail turned a corner and a large rock cairn appeared, marking the summit of Mt. Pierce. A couple of USGS markers (benchmark & reference mark) completed the confirmation of the peak. Beyond the summit cairn, a stone-bordered path and smaller cairns marked the route of the trail through the alpine vegetation, heading north. A chain of Presidential peaks rose beyond - Eisenhower, Monroe, Washington, and the rest.
I followed the trail to an open spot above the drop into the col between Pierce & Eisenhower. A man was there with his dog, a small, light breed with long legs. Perfect for hiking. While we talked, a group of perhaps half a dozen elderly (older than me!) hikers came up the trail from below. They were in a good mood, judging by their animated conversation, and headed past us toward the summit. I bid farewell to the man and his dog, then began my descent to the Crawford Path. Built in 1819, it's the oldest continuously used trail in the US, leading from Crawford Notch to the summit of Mt. Washington. Today, it would be my path back to my car. All downhill from here!
Given its centuries of use and continued popularity, I expected the Crawford Path to be a smooth, easy trail. Nope. It was the same rough, rocky path as every other trail in the Whites. My feet were complaining as each step jammed my toes into the front of my boots. Knowing (and feeling) that my legs were nearing the end of their usefulness (rubber legs time), I was careful to make solid pole placements as I made my way down. I hoped to extend the lifespan of my leg muscles and avoid any falls. I still slipped one time, a slow collapse without any injury (other than to my pride). I rose, took a deep breath, and accepted it as a sign that I'd put in a long day's work.
The trail never eased up. I distracted myself by thinking about how it had been a bridle path for horses at one point, and marvelled at the work of Abel Crawford and his son Ethan, who constructed it in the mid-1800s to attract tourists to their hotel. Looking at the surrounding forest & slopes, it was hard to imagine the effort required to create an opening for a trail.
Shortly after I passed the lower end of the Mizpah Cutoff, I encountered a large group of young teenage hikers (a mix of boys & girls) with overnight gear, accompanied by a couple of adult guides. They were taking a break, and many of the kids did not appear especially happy. Behind them were several other similar groups. All totaled, there were perhaps 60 kids in the groups. It was about 1:30PM, and I had a lot of questions (which I didn't think to ask). Who were they? Where were they spending the night? My guess is they were a school group - one of the adults wore a t-short saying "Educator" - and were heading to Mizpah. It would take them several more hours to get there, but there was plenty of daylight left. Mizpah has space for 60, so they may have reserved the entire hut.
Sadly, only one of the adults accompanying the teens seemed even remotely upbeat, responding to my greetings with a smile and a friendly response. The rest acted as if the trip was a punishment of some sort. The first one I encountered was actually chewing out one of the student in front of his peers, asking him if he understood how difficult he was making things for her. Bad form on many levels, and certainly not the way to give the kids a supportive, positive experience in the mountains.
With the kids now behind me, the trail became quiet again. I had encounters with a couple of hikers, both climbing and descending, and with a raven who screamed from the branches above. I hope it wasn't angry with me. I kept watching (hoping) for the trail to level off while listening for the sound of traffic on Route 302 to mark the end of the path. The trail never changed, but gradually I did begin to hear road noise, along with the distinctive sound of a locomotive. A final trail junction appeared (the Crawford Connector), then a short stretch of smooth level path led to an opening in the trees with cars passing just beyond.
I emerged from the woods to find myself in the New England foliage version of Disneyland. Tourists everywhere! The train I'd heard had unloaded several cars full of folks at Crawford Station, a few tour buses had done the same with their passengers, and the parking areas were full of cars. Everywhere I looked, day visitors were walking along the roads, marveling at the colors. I began walking back toward my car, resigned to a road walk through the crowds, then spotted a trail sign for the Saco Lake Trail. A quick check of my trail app confirmed that the trail would lead me right to my car, so back into the woods I went, following a smooth, pleasant path through the woods around the lake.
I passed a few day-trippers going in the opposite direction, but mostly had the short trail to myself. It was a nice way to end the loop. One final corner and the bridge at the end came into view, with my car parked on the other side. It was 2:00PM.
Postscript: Not knowing when I'd be back this way again, I decided to go home via the Kancamagus Highway. The weather was perfect, and I had nothing better to do, so why not? Well, to start it meant a drive south on Route 302 and a trip through North Conway. Ouch! Elderly leaf-peepers in no particular hurry, lots of traffic, road construction, and generally slow-going. Things got better once I got on the Kanc, for a time, but I wound up in a conga line across much of it, going 10 mph below the speed limit. That said, I enjoyed the views along the Kanc and seeing trailheads I recalled from previous trips. It added an hour and a half of travel time to my ride home, but I'm glad I took the opportunity while it was available.
Notes & thoughts:
- The numbers: 9.2 miles, 3300 feet of elevation, just shy of 6 hours round trip
- Jackson (4052') and Pierce (4312') were #s 34 & 35 on my NH 48 4K list. Webster, at 3910 feet, falls short.
- I considered removing a layer several times during the hike, even soon after I'd begun. At that point though, it was still fairly cool and I was happier to be a bit warm. I remained comfortable until just past Mizpah hut, when the day had warmed up and my efforts began to wear on me. Removing my fleece at that point gave me a nice boost of energy for the remainder of the hike.
- Knowing the weather would be nice, I used my smaller pack. I stuffed in my Patagonia jacket though, just in case, but could have left it behind, along with my fleece, and just carried a light jacket or anorak.
- I'd added inserts to my boots before the hike for a bit more cushioning under foot. Unfortunately, the additional cushioning reduced the space inside the boots and my feet were jammed against the sides and toe. For most of the hike it wasn't a problem, but during the descent on the Crawford Path...well, them dogs was barkin'! I've returned the former inserts to the boots and I'll try thicker socks next time.
- Speaking of footwear, I made a point of noticing what people were wearing on their feet. Quite a few (perhaps the majority) were wearing trail runners instead of boots. Lighter, comfortable, and enough support for the light loads most folks were carrying. Worth a try on a future hike.
- I drank more water than usual, close to a liter (judging by what was left in the hydration bladder at the end). My lunch just came along for the ride once again and was eaten in the car on the way home.
- The trails I hiked last week in the Tripyramids, within a Wilderness area, are lightly maintained and intentionally left in a primitive condition. In contrast, these trails are highly curated, with rock steps, boardwalks, blazes on the trees, etc.
- This was a tougher hike than the last one. Though nearly 2 miles shorter, it took me the about the same amount of time to complete. At my usual pace (2 mph, regardless of elevation), I would have finished maybe 75 minutes faster than I did. The difference? Lots of tough scrambling climbs.
- There was a symmetry to this recent round of hikes. Tecumseh was in Waterville, the Willey Range was Crawford, the Tripyramids were Waterville, and this one was Crawford again. And they were hiked in pairs, each a week apart. Not planned that way...it just happened.
