Sudbury River

Where: Sudbury River to Cedar Swamp Pond
When: 10/25/03
With: Brian


It had been a while since I last paddled up the Sudbury River, probably the time with Jane & Andy where we just explored the lower section as far as the highway culverts. That trip had proved that the canoe could navigate the waterway, but I still wanted to see if it was possible to make it all the way up to the headwaters. I'd promised Brian a local canoe adventure and decided to use him a crew on my attempt. We met at my house at 8 and were on the water by 8:30. The cool autumn overnight air had frosted the marsh grasses with their own mist but a bright sun promised to melt it all by the time we returned. Though the water level was a bit lower than usual as we set out, the only trouble we experienced came from the rust on our paddling skills and the size of the canoe. We constantly bumped into the bank or drove into brush as we figured out the best way to maneuver the long craft through the river's meandering curves. Brian, in the front seat, took the brunt of the impact from the vegetation but did a good job keeping the bow of the canoe aimed upstream. The seat also gave him prime viewing as we proceeded and he was the first to spot a deer as we rounded one curve. Startled, it bounded off into the brush and disappeared.

The roar of the highway was a constant reminder of the proximity of civilization, but otherwise we were completely surrounded by nothing but nature as we pushed on through the lower section. A few curves gave us a bit of trouble, then we came out into the wide section just before the Pike culvert. The wide waterway was a nice respite from the winding, narrow route downstream and we enjoyed the sense of calm under the tree canopy before heading into the tunnel. A sparse layer of autumn debris on the surface diminished the visual effect of floating in mid-air somewhat, but it was still quite evident and Brian enjoyed it. Looking ahead we caught a glimpse of a Great Blue Heron taking flight from the pool between the highways, though the bird was nowhere to be seen when we emerged back into the daylight. We plunged into the twilight of the next tunnel, passed under 495 and shortly began our journey up the upper section of the river.

The waterway was wider and easier to paddle here, contrary to what we expected (usually streams & rivers grow wider downstream) and the change was welcome. We'd also become more proficient at guiding the canoe along and we made good progress up stream. Using a combination of paddling and pushing, we negotiated the river's myriad meanders and a log or two to continue along. We scared up another heron (or perhaps the same one), and I spotted something in the water at one point (a muskrat?) but generally we had the place to ourselves. Eventually the trees that had accompanied us on each side grew more distant and we came to a wide, open area where Whitehall Brook added its waters to the Sudbury. I noted a couple of sticks and a piece of rebar someone had stuck upright in the brook, as if to create a symbolic barrier to entry, and wondered about its purpose.

The brook's entrance served as a landmark, signaling our approach to our ultimate goal. The river wasn't going to make it easy though, and the stream banks closed in once again, making our passage somewhat more difficult. We pushed on through, but we had one more challenge ahead - a beaver dam I'd encountered the last time I'd visited. It hadn't been there on previous trips and I wondered if it would still be in place. It was. We had no other option than to exit the canoe and haul it up and over the low (8 inch) pile of logs and mud in order to continue. Back in the boat, we paddled through the last few curves, enjoying the dam-created higher & wider water before emerging out on to Cedar Swamp Pond. We took note of a side channel leading in to shore, where a metal boat was visible through the trees, and a relatively new wooden platform right at the river's exit (for duck hunting, no doubt) as we paddled out onto the pond's tranquil surface. No wind rippled the water and no fish broke the surface to disturb the glassy texture. A few mats of vegetation floated near the margins and we skirted them as we slowly circumnavigated the shore. The foliage was well past peak color but it was still quite pretty and peaceful. We managed to locate the older duck blind on the far shore then continued our circuit and wound up simply exiting again and beginning our journey back.

I requested a brief respite and we backed the canoe down the side channel past the boat we'd seen to a spot where I was able to get out on land. I made my way up through the brambles and then trudged to the top of the small hill overlooking the pond. A ramshackle structure just on the other side invited some exploration. It was primarily a log building, about five feet high, covered with all manner of tarps, old sleeping bags, sheets of plastic and such to keep it somewhat weatherproof. I walked around it and found a small, low entrance. Peering in I marvelled at how dank and nasty the dark, dirt-floored space appeared. Inviting only in case of a downpour, and maybe not even then! Still, I was pleased that the surrounding area wasn't especially trashed and gave the maintainers a bit of credit as I wandered back to the canoe.

It took me a few attempts before I discovered the path back to where Brian and the boat remained, but soon enough I was back on board and we were on our way. Shortly we arrived at the beaver dam and I proposed we just run right over it. Not quite as simple as it sounded, but we did manage to make it over without having to get out. The rest of the trip downstream was quit nice. The air temperature had risen to the point where I was able to shed my jacket, and a combination of downstream flow and improved boat-handling skills made for easier progress. We scared up another heron along the way and it wasn't long before the roadways came into view. We slid under the 495 culvert, startled yet another heron back at the inter-highway pool, passed through the Pike culvert and began the final leg of our journey. One final heron took wing at our approach in the lower section (perhaps they were all the same, very upset bird!), then the trees closed over us one last time and we were back where we'd begun.

All in all, a nice trip, and it's good to finally know that it can be done in a canoe. Total time on the water: 3 hours.

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