Westfield River with The BUMS

Where: Mr. Beaver's Paradise (Westfield River)
When: 7/27-28, 2002
With: The B.U.M.S.


Back in The Day, putting a hike together for the four members of the Brotherhood of Universal Mutual Stupidity (a.k.a. The BUMS, a.k.a. The Stupids) involved a few quick phone calls and some decision-making about destination, transportation and food. The years have added many layers of other considerations however. We've many miles between us, and there are kids and schedules and responsibilities and....well, it's pretty rare and special when we can pull it all together. The last time we all gathered was in 1999 for our last Collinsville trip, and this year's trip almost didn't happen. A number of dates were proposed, rejected, agreed upon, rescinded and it began to look like we'd have to wait another year. Like the clouds parting to reveal a patch of blue sky however, our schedules shifted, a date opened up and lo and behold, we could all make it.

So we locked in the date and began the planning. I suggested a return to Mr. Beaver's Paradise, a small gorge on the Westfield River within a state forest/wildlife management/Corps of Engineers area. I'd been there many times and it was nearly ideal. A short hike, a nice campsite, lots to do, and relatively out of the way. It was also somewhat centrally located between Seth (in NYC) and the rest of us. I figured we could use Northampton as a rendezvous point. Everyone agreed and the location was set. That was really about it for planning. We made sure Seth had the gear he needed (I offered a tent and Chip had a sleeping bag), I picked up some cheap vinyl floats for the water, and we set up meeting times, but beyond that...not much.

Finally the weekend arrived. At Jane's suggestion I offered Seth a room at our house Friday night, but Chip spoke with him and relayed that Seth planned to drive as far as Collinsville Friday night and then head north Saturday morning. That sounded about perfect since Collinsville is about the same distance south of Northampton as Hopkinton is west, but at the last minute Seth decided to keep driving Friday and spent the night at The Ritz. We had a nice evening catching up with him and the next morning Chip & Dave arrived before either Seth or Jane was up. We spent some time with coffee and conversation before packing everyone into my car and heading out.

It was a quick drive over to Northampton, where we started looking for opportunities for supplies. We needed food, drink and fishing line for Chip, but there was nothing appropriate along the main drag in Northampton and we continued west on route 9 until we got to Florence. Chip spotted a liquor store, so we pulled over and realized it was also a small market. And there was a sporting goods store a block away. Perfect! We spent an hour or so there, purchasing supplies, using the bathrooms at the local Friendly's, and enjoying the Saturday morning rhythms of the small town.

Back on the road it was a short drive further on route 9 to route 143 in to Chesterfield and then down to the parking area at Indian Hollow. The gate to the camping area was open and a few cars & trucks came out while we packed up. A state pick-up also came in but didn't pay notice of us or our pile of gear. We got everything pulled together, took a few start-of-the-hike pictures, and then started walking down to the river. The day was overcast but pleasantly warm so we were all quite comfortable. We avoided the camping area as usual and headed along the horse/bike trail to the ford. Arriving at the river's edge I was taken aback by the low water level. No more than mid-shin deep, with plenty of exposed rocks. Quite a difference from my last visit in late May (thigh deep) or the hike two years ago with the boys when it was uncrossable.

We had no problem crossing and met up with a couple on mountain bikes on the other side. They asked about trails on the east side of the river and wondered where we were going. We gave details on the trails and remained vague on our plans, then bid them goodbye and continued on upstream while they headed south. A continuous flow of conversation made the walk on the old dirt road go by quickly and before we knew it we were at our camping area. A re-cross of the river put us back on the east bank, where we scrambled up into the woods and picked up a ATV trail which we followed up to the campsite.

The campsite was empty and in excellent shape. In past years there had been a fair amount of trash but there was none of that evident this time. The ATV tracks looked well used so perhaps those folks were keeping it picked up. In any case, we dropped our gear, claimed the area and settled in for the weekend. I went down to check on the old rope swing (long gone) and then returned up the cliff face to rejoin the others. It was a bit past noon so we all ate a bit of lunch while we decided what to do next. Chip & I inflated our rafts and headed for the water while Dave & Seth hung out at the campsite. Chip's plan was to go as far upstream as possible and then float down through the gorge. I decided to join him and went up the right fork around the island upstream, intending to start floating just below some small rapids.

Settling on to the float was a bit of a shock...the water was a good bit colder than I'd expected, though not painfully so. I lay on my stomach, with the pillow supporting my chest and head and started downstream with the current. The float was just adequate in terms of floatation, but good enough to support me. I was still pretty cold, but the warm air on my back kept me okay. I quickly floated down into the main pool using a doggie-paddle for propulsion and found Chip paddling his way up the other branch. I started over there but decided to just float downstream. It was a nice slow float but I began to get chilled and pulled myself out just below the campsite.

I climbed up to rejoin Dave & Seth, changed out of my wet shirt and began to warm up again. They had started to set up their sleeping quarters, so I decided to do the same. The three of us all had hammocks...my old canvas one for Seth, Dave's identical canvas hammock and my Hennessey hammock...and we all quickly selected trees to use. Dave used a new hanging method I'd suggested and found it worked well, so we used it for Seth's hammock as well. Seth & I wound up sharing a tree for one end of our hammocks, making us roommates for the night. My Hennessey went up in a flash (as usual), set up to give me a morning view out over the gorge.

About this time Chip reappeared, first swimming upstream past the base of the campsite and then walking up through the woods. He'd circumnavigated the small island upstream, which he'd dubbed Stupid Island, and suggested we all join him to repeat the journey. We inflated the remaining rafts and went down to the river one by one. I was the last one down and met Dave returning quickly. Apparently the water was a bit too cold for him to enjoy and he planned to take a nap in his hammock. I joined Chip & Seth, already on the water and splashing each other. The three of us made our way up around the island and took turns "running the rapids" and taking pictures with Seth's waterproof camera, even submerging our heads for some underwater shots. Then we returned to the main pool and floated through the gorge on our backs, relaxing as we watched the trees glide by overhead. Once again though I began to get chilled and I paddled over and got out halfway down.

We all gathered back at the campsite where I boiled up a pot of water for tea to warm us up. Chip took the opportunity to set up his tent and we enjoyed some tea and munchies, along with a bit of deep woods Frisbee tossing. It was an interesting exercise, running through the trees and attempting to throw the disc (usually unsuccessfully) through narrow tree openings. It certainly warmed us up.

While we were up there we noticed a day fisherman down below, working his way upstream around the pool. I decided to take a shot at some fishing so I put on a dry shirt, grabbed my fishing gear and returned to the water to try my luck with rod & reel. I went to the downstream end of the gorge to start. It was getting late in the day and I took a few pictures of the river and gorge from the rock I was on. Very pretty.

I fished awhile, with no action, and then I saw someone I thought was the other fisherman on the rocks just below the campsite. I figured he'd worked his way around the gorge and was going to cast in there, and then I heard a splash as he jumped in. It was only when he got out that I realized it was Dave, down from the campsite. I decided to give the fishing a rest and made my way up to join him. The water looked deep and inviting and we discussed the possibility of a dive. In the end we decided it was reasonably safe and we both wound up diving in. Very refreshing.

Finished with our swim, we climbed back up and were drying off when we heard another splash. Chip or Seth I thought, jumping in. Then I happened to look over the cliff and noticed Mr. Beaver swimming by! I grabbed my fishing gear and hurried down to the upper end of the gorge to join Chip & Seth. They told me that the beaver had come right up to Chip, slapped his tail and circled around Chip, claiming his territory. While we were down there we noticed a second beaver (Mrs. Beaver?) also swimming around. Chip also mentioned that he'd watched as the other fisherman had pulled out a 17-inch rainbow trout. Wow! Seemed like a good incentive to try some more fishing, so Chip & I spent another hour or so fishing all around the gorge. I managed to catch two fish. The first was about 2 inches long and it flew past my head as I retrieved my line and landed flopping on the shore before thrashing its way back into the water. The second was all of 4 inches long but he managed to get most of my fly, so it took me about 5 minutes-worth of work with a surgical clamp to retrieve it before I let the fish go.

After that we all decided to try to put together some dinner. The sun finally decided to make an appearance and it actually became rather warm. I boiled up some water for tortellini while Seth & Chip got a fire going to cook some sausages they'd purchased at the market in Florence. In short order we were all eating, with Dave & I sticking to the pasta while Chip & Seth roasted their sausages on sticks and ate them in rolled up flat bread. Good food all around.

We let the fire smolder after dinner and Chip & I went back out fishing while Seth & Dave relaxed at the camp. Once again we had no luck with the fish and soon we all gathered by the fire for the evening. We spent the next few hours playing music, telling stories and enjoying the night. Chip had brought a mandolin (which we were never able to tune) and we also had a couple of penny whistles, a harmonica, my air-powered keyboard and various bottles & pans for percussion. Seth made a tape recording (of very dubious value except as blackmail) of our activities and we even had an owl hooting in the nearby woods.

At one point Seth brought out some fireworks and after much debate about the advisability of setting off things that shoot sparks in the middle of the woods, we decided to set one off. We carefully placed it on a patch of bare earth and rock, lit it, and then watched as it flew into the air and shot off toward the river and into the trees! We watched in stunned shock as it lodged in a pine and spewed out a fountain of green sparks into the branches before finally dying. We rushed to the cliff edge and looked down for any signs of smoke or flame. Seeing none, we elected to put the fireworks away.

Eventually sleep called to us and Dave was first to head to his bed. The rest of us called it quits around 10:45, though officially Chip & Seth were the last ones to retire. The air temperature was very pleasant and we all slept relatively well. Chip began snoring almost immediately, of course, and Seth made some very agitated noises in his sleep early in the morning. Dave was pretty quiet, though he says he was up several times to pee. I slept in 2 hour chunks, getting up around 1:30, 3:30 and 6, but getting some good rest. One time I awoke soaked in sweat, but for the most part I was comfortable.

The clouds rolled back in overnight (the stars we'd enjoyed earlier were gone by 1:30) and dawn was gray again. Chip, Seth & I all made noises around 6, but elected to enjoy the peace and comfort a bit longer so we didn't get rolling until about 8. I was the first one out, and I got water going for coffee. The others slowly emerged from their beds and we had a nice relaxed breakfast of coffee, tea and bagels.

After breakfast, Chip & I went down to the rocks below the campsite for a wake-up dive and swim. I went first, Chip followed, and then I decided to go again. I swam around a bit after the plunge, doing a few crawl strokes upstream before making my way back to shore. As I was climbing out on the rocks, my bare feet slipped on the wet rocks and I wound up banging the toes on my right foot. Ow! Fortunately the cold water of the river was immediately available and I let my foot soak for a while until the pain subsided to a dull throb before I put my water shoes back on and climbed up.

Dave & Seth made arrangements to become Beaver Divers themselves while Chip & I set off for another round of fishing. I intended to head upstream past the island to visit a few spots I'd had success at in the past, but once I got above the gorge I noticed that the wind was picking up and it was feeling decidedly stormy. Given my foot pain and the weather I decided to head back to the campsite and pack up a bit. The others had the same thoughts and we soon found ourselves all taking down our hammocks and tents and putting everything away. There was no great rush to the process but around noon we were done and it began to rain a bit, so we figured it was time to go. We made sure the site was as nice as we'd found it, bid it farewell and thanks and headed downstream.

We briefly considered following the ATV trail up to the roads or bushwhacking along the east bank of the river, but decided to just retrace our route instead. We crossed the river downstream of the gorge, picked up the road south on the west bank and trudged back down to Indian Hollow. As in the past, we re-crossed at the campground instead of the ford and greeted a number of folks camping there as we walked back toward the car. We commented on the feeling we always seem to get that we're being eyed with a certain amount of suspicion and distrust.

So, back to the car we went and back to civilization. A stop for lunch was decreed, though we needed a venue that could accommodate our stinky condition. I recalled a driving range in Williamsburg with a snack bar and that turned out to be perfect. They ran a great little sub & burger business and we all ate well while watching the local kids and the golfers. Cell phones came out to check in with the families and then we were back on the road toward home. Arrival in Hopkinton was almost exactly at 4:00, where we transferred gear and bodies to the other cars and then bid each other adieu. An excellent hike.

Notes & thoughts: There isn't much to add. This was a wonderful stay at a great location. Perhaps next time I'll actually use the climbing gear I brought. The cliffs at the campsite offer a huge number of opportunities, all well within my ability.

More pictures

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